Everything You’ll Need

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Step 1: Prepare the Space

Take Off Baseboards and Old Flooring

Start by taking away any old flooring and baseboards to show the subfloor. This makes a clean place and lets the hardwood expand at the edges.

Use a pry bar to gently lift baseboards, being careful not to hurt the drywall so you can put them back later. Remove any carpet, vinyl, laminate, or old hardwood, and make sure all old glue or staples are scraped off.

Clean and Even Out the Subfloor

Sweep and vacuum the entire subfloor to get rid of dust, nails, debris, or glue bits. Then check for low or high spots using a straight edge or long level.

  • If there are high spots: sand them down.

  • If there are low spots: use a floor leveling compound to fill and smooth them out.

A flat, even subfloor stops squeaks and helps floors last longer.

Look for Moisture or Damage

Moisture often causes hardwood floors to fail. Use a moisture meter to check both the subfloor and the hardwood planks.

  • For wood subfloors: moisture content should usually be below 12%.

  • For concrete subfloors: follow the manufacturer’s limits — usually below 4% with a calcium chloride test.

If moisture is too high, stop installation and fix it before moving on.

Put Down Underlayment or Vapor Barrier (If Needed)

Depending on your flooring and subfloor, you might need an underlayment or moisture barrier:

  • On concrete: use a vapor barrier or underlayment with moisture protection.

  • On plywood or OSB: rosin paper, felt underlayment, or foam pad may be suggested.

Follow the manufacturer’s rules to avoid warranty issues and make sure it works well. Lay the underlayment flat without overlapping and tape seams if needed.

Step 2: Plan Your Hardwood Layout

Pick Your Starting Wall

In most rooms, lay hardwood planks next to the longest or most seen wall to make the room feel bigger. For multiple rooms, think about how planks connect at doorways.

Snap a chalk line for a straight guide along your first wall. This keeps the first rows straight and helps the whole layout stay aligned.

Let the Flooring Adjust

Before installing, let hardwood planks adjust to room temperature and humidity for at least 48 to 72 hours. Lay boxes flat, open the ends, and let air circulate in the room where they will be installed.

This helps the wood fit the room better and prevents issues like expansion or warping later.

Try a Dry Run

Lay a few rows of boards without attaching them to see how they look. This helps you:

  • Make sure the layout is balanced

  • Avoid thin planks along walls

  • Plan for things like vents or door frames

Mix boards from different boxes to even out color and grain across the floor.

Stagger Joints, Avoid Patterns

For a natural look, stagger plank ends by at least 6 to 8 inches in different rows. Don’t repeat lengths or make noticeable patterns.

Tip: Use different plank lengths and switch them in rows for a natural flow.

Figure Out Material Needs

Measure the area (length × width) and add 10% for waste and repairs.

For odd-shaped rooms or diagonal installs, increase waste to 12–15%.

Step 3: Choose Your Installation Method

Before you start, choose the best way to install your hardwood flooring based on the type and subfloor. Each way needs different tools and skills.

Nail-Down Installation (Common for Solid Hardwood)

This way works well for solid hardwood over wooden subfloors. Use a nailer or stapler to attach each board.

  • Best for: Solid hardwood over wood subfloors

  • Tools needed: Flooring nailer, mallet, air compressor

  • Pros: Very secure and long-lasting

  • DIY Difficulty: Moderate (needs precision and right tools)

Glue-Down Installation

This method is for engineered hardwood on concrete. Apply adhesive and press boards down.

  • Best for: Engineered hardwood over concrete

  • Tools needed: Flooring adhesive, notched trowel, floor roller

  • Pros: Strong bond, low profile

  • DIY Difficulty: Moderate to high (messy, needs ventilation)

Floating Installation (Click-Lock)

Good for DIYers, this method uses click-lock planks that fit together without nails or glue.

  • Best for: Click-lock engineered hardwood over any flat surface

  • Tools needed: Spacers, tapping block, underlayment

  • Pros: Fast, clean, beginner-friendly

  • DIY Difficulty: Easy

Pro Tip: For solid hardwood over wood subfloors, nail-down is often best. Floating floors are easier for engineered wood.

Step 4: Mark Guidelines and Snap Chalk Lines

Before starting, make a straight line to help with laying the floor.

Snap a Chalk Line Along Your Starting Wall
Pick the starting wall, usually the longest one in the room. Measure one board’s width and snap a chalk line parallel to that wall. This line guides your first row.

Use the Line to Keep Rows Straight
Align boards with the chalk line as you go. This keeps the floor straight and prevents it from curving.

Leave a 1/2″ Expansion Gap Around the Perimeter
Wood floors expand and contract. Use spacers to leave a 1/2-inch gap between the wood and walls or other obstacles. This prevents buckling.

Step 5: Lay the First Row of Planks

Trim Door Jambs if Needed
Before placing the first plank, check if it needs to go under door casings or trim. Use a saw to trim the bottom of door jambs so the planks fit smoothly underneath without gaps.

Start with Groove Side Facing the Wall
Place the first plank with the groove side against the wall. This helps the tongue of the next row click or lock into place easily. Start on the longest, straightest wall to keep the flooring aligned throughout the room.

Secure the First Row
Depending on how you install:

  • Nail-down: Use a flooring nailer to fasten the boards to the subfloor through the tongue side.

  • Glue-down: Spread glue with a trowel and press each plank firmly in place.

  • Floating (click-lock): Angle the second plank into the first and lock it by clicking.

Make sure the planks are tight together without gaps at the seams.

Use Spacers to Maintain Expansion Gaps
Put 1/2″ spacers between the planks and the wall. This gap lets the hardwood expand and contract naturally with changes in humidity and temperature, preventing buckling or warping.

Step 6: Install the Remaining Flooring

After the first row is in place and straight, keep adding the hardwood planks one row at a time.

Stagger the End Joints for Stability
To make the floor strong and look natural, stagger the end joints by at least 6 inches. Do not line up joints in back-to-back rows to avoid patterns that repeat and weaken the floor.

Use a Tapping Block for a Tight Fit
Put a tapping block at the edge of each plank and gently tap with a mallet to close gaps. This keeps each board tight against the next without hurting the tongue or groove.

Secure Boards Based on Your Method

  • Nail-down: Nail through the tongue at a 45° angle every 6–8 inches.

  • Glue-down: Spread glue evenly and press planks down firmly.

  • Floating floor: Click the boards together end-to-end and side-to-side.

Check for Level Frequently
Every few rows, use a level to check if the floor is flat. Make adjustments if needed to avoid future problems.

Step 7: Cut Boards to Fit Edges and Corners

When you reach walls or obstacles, cut the last planks to fit perfectly.

Measure and Mark Carefully
Use a tape measure to find the space left, taking away 1/2″ for an expansion gap. Mark it with a pencil or chalk.

Use the Right Saw for the Job

  • Miter saw: Good for straight cuts.

  • Jigsaw: Best for curved cuts around vents or door frames.

Cut on a stable surface and wear safety glasses to protect your eyes.

Maintain Expansion Gaps
Keep a 1/2″ gap between the floor and all vertical surfaces. This lets the hardwood expand and contract naturally.

Step 8: Reinstall Baseboards and Transition Strips

Reattach Baseboards and Shoe Molding
After the hardwood planks are in place, you should reinstall the baseboards around the room. If you have shoe molding, put that back too for a neat look.

Install Transition Strips
Use transition strips at doorways and where hardwood meets other floors like tile or carpet. Choose T-moldings, reducers, or threshold transitions based on the height and type of the other flooring.

Leave Room for Movement
When attaching trim, don’t fasten it to the hardwood floor. This prevents expansion and contraction issues and avoids buckling. Trim should be secured to the wall or subfloor, not the floating floor.

Step 9: Clean and Inspect Your Floor

After the floor is installed, clean it and check that everything looks good before you start using it.

Sweep and Vacuum Well
Use a broom or vacuum with a soft brush to get rid of sawdust and dirt. This helps you see the floor clearly and stops scratches when you check or add furniture.

Look for Problems
See if there are gaps, uneven boards, or noises when you walk. Use a tapping block to fix any boards that aren’t straight, or check your installation guide for help.

Allow Floor to Settle
If you glued down the floor, wait 24–48 hours before putting furniture or rugs on it. This lets the glue dry completely and keeps it steady.

Pro Tips for a Successful Hardwood Installation

Getting hardwood floors to look professional requires good preparation and care. Follow these tips to work better and avoid problems:

  • Always test for moisture with a moisture meter before installing to stop future cupping or buckling.

  • Use knee pads to protect your knees during long work, and ensure good ventilation if using glue.

  • Check alignment every few rows to keep planks straight.

  • Work in small sections instead of rushing the whole room to keep quality high.

  • Take your time on cuts. Neat cuts are key for tight seams and a professional look.

Common Mistakes to Avoid When Installing Hardwood

Even skilled DIYers can face problems if these common mistakes aren’t avoided:

  • Skipping the acclimation period can make the wood expand or shrink after it’s laid down.

  • Ignoring subfloor moisture and flatness causes instability, noise, or gaps.

  • Failing to stagger seams weakens the floor’s structure and makes it look uneven.

  • Nailing too close to the edge of the plank can cause splits.

  • Forgetting to use spacers leaves no space for expansion, leading to buckling.

DIY vs. Professional Hardwood Installation

Putting in hardwood floors yourself can save money and feel rewarding, but it’s not for everyone. Here’s how to know if you should do it yourself or hire professionals.

DIY Pros:

  • Spend less overall

  • Control the timing and speed

  • Feel proud of doing it yourself

DIY Cons:

  • Hard work and takes a lot of time

  • Needs careful planning and special tools

  • Fixing mistakes can be pricey

Professional Installation Pros:

  • Quick, expert work with little trouble

  • Includes prep, leveling, and cleaning

  • Usually has a workmanship guarantee

Professional Installation Cons:

  • Costs more for labor

  • Less control over when it’s done

📊 Side-by-Side Comparison Table

Tool / MaterialSolid Hardwood (Nail-Down)Engineered Hardwood (Glue-Down)Engineered Hardwood (Floating/Click-Lock)Purpose
Tape Measure✔✔✔Measure layout and planks
Chalk Line✔✔✔Mark layout lines
Pry Bar✔✔✔Remove old flooring/baseboards
Moisture Meter✔✔✔Check subfloor moisture
Level✔✔✔Ensure even subfloor
SpacersOptional✔✔Maintain expansion gap at walls
Flooring Nailer / Stapler✔✘✘Secure solid planks to subfloor
Flooring Adhesive✘✔✘Glue engineered wood to subfloor
Trowel (for adhesive)✘✔✘Spread adhesive evenly
Click-Lock Installation Kit✘✘✔Includes tapping block, pull bar, spacers
Miter Saw✔✔✔Make crosscuts on planks
Jigsaw / Oscillating Tool✔✔✔Trim around obstacles
Safety Glasses✔✔✔Eye protection while cutting
Knee Pads
FeatureDIY InstallationProfessional Installation
Average Cost per Sq Ft$3 – $8 (materials + tools)$7 – $18 (includes labor)
Best ForBudget-conscious, handy homeownersBusy homeowners, large or complex jobs
Time CommitmentSeveral days or weekends1–2 days (typical)
Risk of MistakesModerate to highLow
Tool Investment Required✔❌ (provided by installer)
SatisfactionHigh (if done well)High (with professional finish)

👉 For a full breakdown of costs, methods, and scenarios, visit our Hardwood Flooring Cost Guide